How-to & FAQ Topics:
How-to Resources & FAQ is library of articles and videos complied to help our customers complete their DIY leather and vinyl restoration projects.
How do I clean leather or vinyl before restoration?
Many stains will not disappear with cleaning, but they can be concealed with a new finish. Alcohol is the single most important cleaner.
First determine the type of material and if it absorbs water. This indicates the type of finish, the condition, and which cleaning products should be used. The video below demonstrates. Or click here for instructions:
How to Clean Absorbent Leather
How to Clean Non-Absorbent Leather or Vinyl
Video contents:
- 0:12 – Is the material absorbent?
- 0:51 – Clean leather and vinyl with alcohol (including aniline, semi-aniline, top-grain, full-grain, and finished leather)
- 1:31 – Non-absorbent, finished leather or vinyl should then be cleaned with a mild water-based degreaser like Flite®
- 2:28 – The Tape Test for adhesion
- 3:16 – How to deglaze a waxed finish
Cleaning Absorbent Aniline or Semi-Aniline Leather
- Pour denatured or rubbing alcohol onto a rag, not the surface itself.
- Wipe the surface in smooth, fast strokes. The leather may temporarily darken. Don’t overscrub or abrade the leather.
- Allow to dry.
- Test for adhesion by applying a piece of masking or painter’s tape to the cleaned surface. ‘Scrub’ the tape onto the surface with a nail. If the tape sticks well and is not curling up at the corners, proceed.
- Repeat steps 1-4 if necessary.
- Start with a water-based degreaser like our Flite® or 409® on non-absorbent or unworn areas. A toothbrush or nailbrush will help remove dirt and oil from the recesses of the grain and is recommended if changing color. Do not use caustic, antibacterial, or other leather cleaners which may leave residue.
- Allow to dry.
- Follow with denatured or rubbing alcohol on all areas, including absorbent spots. Pour the alcohol onto a rag, not the surface itself.
- Wipe the surface in smooth, fast strokes.
- Allow to dry.
- Test for adhesion. Apply a piece of masking or painter’s tape to the cleaned surface. ‘Scrub’ the tape onto the surface with a nail. If the tape sticks well and is not curling up at the corners, proceed.
- Repeat steps 1-6 if necessary.
What About Ink, Oil Stains, Vomit?
Learn more about pre-treating:
- body oil or head stains;
- water, wine, coffee, cola stains;
- ink or blue-jean backstaining;
- mold or mildew;
- milk, urine, vomit, feces and pet stains;
- or cigarette smoke.
Need a More Aggressive Leather Deglazer or Dewaxer?
Acetone is the most aggressive solvent and should be used with caution. It will soften and remove most finishes to varying degrees. It rarely darkens absorbent leathers but can bleach them. It can be very effective in neutralizing silicone treatments (Armor-All, Son-of-a-Gun) as well as Scotch-Guard type treatments on finished leathers prior to repair. It evaporates very quickly.
d-Limonene is a more mild solvent with low toxicity that is primarily used as a degreaser and can be effective in removing waxy residue. It is better suited to non-absorbent leathers, as it may darken absorbent leathers. It is fairly safe on most finishes but can be mixed with alcohols to increase chemical aggressiveness. It is slow to evaporate.
- Test in a small, inconspicuous area.
- Pour the solvent onto your rag, not the surface itself.
- Wipe the surface in smooth, fast strokes.
- Allow to dry.
- Perform the tape test to check for adhesion.
- Repeat steps 2-5 as necessary.
Reader Interactions
Comments
Leave a Reply
The Knowledge Hub is a library of articles and videos complied to help our customers complete their DIY leather and vinyl restoration projects.
Elaine says
I have forest green leather recliners. Are there any colors beside black that can be used to change the color? Buckskin?
lesandre says
Yes, Camel, Taupe, or Stone are all significantly lighter and would cover well. Please see here about changing color to ensure your recliners are good candidates.
Nancy McReynolds says
I’m so confused! lol. I received my order and am at a loss as to where to start! I love the color of my sofa so I am not planning on recoloring it….only touching up the very worn areas where people sit…with sunscreen etc… (I know..) Anyway, so my sofa is leather and in the unworn areas it is not absorbent; however, in the worn areas, it is absorbent. I am questioning myself b/c I have ingested so much information I’m not sure what is what anymore!
As I said before I am just blending this, I have the colors, my struggle is where to start. Do I use 409 or alcohol? How long do I let it dry before applying the color? I purchased the clear prep & finish; when I’m done should I put the sealant on? How do I ensure that the color does not transfer to clothing when people sit on it? Ugh….help please!!
lesandre says
Use 409 on non-absorbent areas. Use alcohol on everything, even worn, absorbent areas. If these worn areas are chafed, shaggy, cracked, scaly or suede is exposed, consider repairing with filler. Otherwise, mix equal parts Clear Prep+Finish with color and apply to the worn, absorbent areas as a base-coat. Let dry. Gently sand any roughness with 320 grit. Continue with more finish. Color alone gets better coverage. Clear alone as a topcoat will dry very shiny, so you may want to stick with a glaze (mix of color and clear) throughout. If you need more help with your project, email photos of the damage.
Kathy says
Hello! What’s the best way to approach a tufted piece of furniture so that all the folds get stained uniformly?
Thanks in advance!
lesandre says
See here about recoloring or refinishing tufted leather. You can always find specific articles like this by searching the single keyword (like ‘tufted’) in the search bar of the FAQs or the site’s footer.
Kathy says
Thank you for the speedy reply!
lesandre says
See here about refinishing or recoloring tufted leather. You can always search for a keyword like “tuft” in the search bar of the FAQs to find specific articles like this.
Bill Haeffner says
I have a 20 year old lazy-boy couch. The leather is tan buckskin. After time it has become soiled from food and head oils. Is this leather acceptable to your product. I also would like to turn the leather dark brown or even black if the soiled areas would hide better.
lesandre says
Sounds like an aniline or semi-aniline, which is the best quality and candidate for a color change, so long as the oil stain is not sticky nor resists a new finish. It’s usually less maintenance to restore to original, and the color will cover a darker stain with sufficient coats. Submit the evaluation if you want our professional assessment and tailored instructions.
Casey says
Hello,
I bought a West Elm chair on super clearance that was supposed to be a a beautiful marina blue and well, it’s purple and faded quickly. It’s described as poly leather but the tags read: new material, polyurethane foam pad 65%, resinator polyester, fiber batting 35%. I don’t see anywhere on the tags that actually say leather. Can I use the midnight blue Rub n Restore leather and vinyl finish?
Thanks for your time!
lesandre says
The tags sometimes only refer to the interior stuffing, not the outer material. You can usually trust the description online. If the material remains a mystery, you can either mail a swatch for us or gamble on a 2 oz. bottle and see if it adheres.
Carol H says
My project is an open/bow rider boat. The dashboard. The instrument panel itself is very worn but I’m not sure if it is made of vinyl or a very hard plastic mold. If it is the latter, can I restore this using your products? Thankyou
lesandre says
Plastics need a primer for the best results.
Dorothea Hancock says
Can I clean leather prior to painting with methylated spirits ?
lesandre says
Yes, methylated spirits is the same as denatured alcohol.
Kim says
Is there a cleaner similar to Flite that I can buy at Walmart or Target?
lesandre says
Old school 409 degreaser diluted with water. We boycott Walmart due to their poor business practices.
Donna J. Wright says
If I decide to use a brush to paint my sofa what type/kind of brush has the best results?
lesandre says
We recommend a sponge. A brush may lay it on too thickly, doesn’t massage the color in as well, and may also leave lines. We only recommend small angled artist brushes for ‘cutting in’ different colored panels, piping or stitching.
Libuse Rajch says
can I use Flite as sealant after painting the leather sofa with your Rub and restore colour product ?
lesandre says
No, Flite is a cleaner, not a sealer. We recommend our Clear Prep+Finish.
Libuse Rajch says
Thank you can I buy Clear Prep+ Finish in Australia?
I prepared my sofa as folow:
cleaning with a rubbing spirit and then used flite.
let it dry and used 2 coats of a filler for scratches let it dry for 2 days
and then used sanding paper to to prepare for painting the colour.
But on the smooth surface the filler formed a thin film and started to peal while sanding what have I done wrong.
lesandre says
Here is troubleshooting for leather filler. Clear Prep+Finish™ is only available through our website. It’s not necessary unless a more lustrous finish is desired or if you are working with a red color. Try dry buffing the color with a rag to polish.
melody bohr says
OK so I am a little confused as to where to begin. I have leather furniture which I really have not done anything with as far as conditioning and it is 15 yrs old. I like the color but it has cat scratches on it and it could use a makeover. How do I begin? I watched your cat scratch video and I have none that deep but alot of lighter ones where she would jump up. Can you tell me what I need to do to get started? I did see a couple of colors which are close to my color. Thanks!
lesandre says
If the scratches can be felt, they need repair. Otherwise color will correct them. We suggest looking at customer reviews of each of our colors and then ordering swatches. Alternatively, you can send a sample and pay a fee for help matching a color.
Jan says
I have used Angelus leather paint on my sofa in the past..it was a burgundy leather. ..I dyed it beige. I like the beige but it was scuffed and chipped in moving. I would like to dye it (leather paint, I suppose) again but I think it should be deglazed or sanded before attempting a lighter beige . Is it possible to remove the painted finish before proceeding with a new finish?
lesandre says
“If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” Where attention is needed, try a solvent. See the second scenario about flaking finishes here for instructions.