A glaze (or wash) is a more translucent finish, in this case made by diluting any Rub ‘n Restore® Color with Clear Prep+Finish™.
Use it to:
- prime any absorbent aniline leather or exceptionally dry or sun-rotted vinyl;
- create a marbled, distressed, or burnished appearance;
- add a satin finish by mixing 3 – 4 parts color + 1 part Clear;
- add a semi-gloss finish by mixing 1 – 2 parts Color + 1 part Clear.
Clear Prep+Finish can be used alone for a glossy finish.
This video demonstrates how easily a glaze can be mixed on the sponge.
Video contents:
- 0:12 – Mixing a glaze directly on your sponge
- 0:30 – Applying the glaze
- 1:06 – Wiping vs. dabbing or stippling the glaze
Clear Prep+Finish™ is the base for all Rub ‘n Restore® Colors. More Clear will dilute the color, resulting in a more lustrous and translucent finish and allowing more of the original colors and features to show. More color will be bolder and get better coverage on stains or fading. Experiment, and make a note of your ratio and method, so you can replicate the results in the future.
If you don’t like the results, you can always apply more color or Clear over the glazed surface.
I have used your product on faded leather. It colors well but I can’t get it to last. The fade comes back through. Is there some way to seal after color is applied to make it last longer?
Did you color change? This will require periodic touch-up and this varies with quality and condition of material. We can sell you an acrylic-urethane satin sealer to add durability. This is special order and not available through the site.
If you didn’t color change, it’s likely that the leather is too worn and would benefit from a little filler before recoloring.
Love it! I just stained my couch and loveseat in an hour and a half. I wiped all the excess off with a pillowcase. Going to go back over it with one part glaze one part color. How long before I could sit on it?
When it feels dry, it is dry and ready for use! But it’s not yet cured, so you might have to touch-up if somebody spilled a cocktail on it. See here about dry time vs. cure time.
Thanks for the quick response, but i am wondering if i can apply the finish without adding the color? What will the results be, as i love the color i just applied (taupe).
I was thinking the same
[First, I apologize if I missed this in your (very well organized) FAQ section. After researching many products, you folks at Rub ‘n Restore were clearly the people to go with!]
Can the glazing technique be used to “nudge” a color toward a different hue of similar value?
Say my chair’s original vinyl is (using your color names) Wine, and the goal is to recolor it to a hue between Brick and Cherrywood. But I want to allow variations in the original to show through, and also make it easier to clean around (and maintain the color of) the many nail heads–which are spaced leaving vinyl between them.
If I made a glaze using Honey or Butterscotch, could I “nudge” that Wine toward the destination color? Or would the result, even with stippling, just look like what it is–a thin layer of one color sitting on top of another?
Maybe this could be a topic for another video: “Ways to Recolor Between Hues of Similar Value.” (LOL–or “More Mistakes to Avoid!”)
Thanks for the kind words. Please see this article with videos about mottling and printing different colors. Our colors can be used to change color, so if you’re wanting to steer the Wine more Brick or Cherrywood, I would work with those colors. Using a Honey or Butterscotch color would eventually steer it more golden brown.