When aniline or semi-aniline leathers become damaged or stained, a leather paint (as opposed to a dye) is usually the solution. Leather paints can also be used to change to a lighter color. However, paints may obscure the natural marbling and patina for which many aniline and semi-aniline leathers are prized, so a minimalist, creative approach must be used.
This video demonstrates:
- 0:26 - Subpatching the tear
- 0:40 - Conditioning with moisturizer cream
- 0:49 - Air dry putty repair
- 1:06 - Application of Clear Prep+Finish
- 1:17 - Application of glaze (2 parts Satin Sealer + 1 part Tobacco)
- 1:46 - Marbling technique
- 2:08 - Burnishing technique
Most will agree they liked the original appearance (without the addition of color) more. The solution is to have used less color in the glaze (i.e. 4:1 ratio).
There are many ways to preserve or create a distressed, marbled or patinated appearance. Experiment with various techniques and tools. Don't be afraid to thin or erase some of your work.
Some tips:
- Test in a hidden area first.
- You can work with one color or more. Most folks simply play up the difference between the original, stained or faded color and the new color by applying one thin coat to the entire piece and then printing or stippling additional coats on 80-90% of the surface.
- If using more than one color, buy a larger volume of the primary base color. Buy a lesser amount of a similar print or burnish color. Similar colors are easier to blend, and sponge marks don't look so hokey, so you you may find it's easier to work with different mixtures of the two colors.
- Dilute color with Clear Prep+Finishā¢ or Satin Sealer. This makes the color more transparent and easier to blend, especially with noticeably different colors (i.e. printing a dark brown over a light tan). It also makes the colors lighter and brighter, so they may not resemble what you see on a sample swatch. Click here for more info and ratios.
- Spritz the surface with a little water to allow the color to follow a natural chaos. It also increases your working time before the color begins to dry.
- Use a brush or one sponge to apply; use a second to disperse and blend the color before it dries. This avoids harsh lines or marks.
- Leave some areas thinner than others or even untouched.
- Periodically step back and assess the appearance from afar to ensure youāre not overworking any area and getting too solid and monochromatic.
- For a very defined print over the base color, use a paintbrush to apply the color or glaze to your sponge. This results in a cleaner, finer print, whereas pouring color onto the sponge deposits color more heavily and obscures more of the base color.
- For a burnished appearance, use a small paintbrush to apply color along seams, piping / welting, tufted buttons or wrinkles. Before it dries, use a damp sponge to disperse and blend the color.
- The color will erase more easily from non-absorbent, finished leathers. Try a rag with water or rubbing alcohol. You can also dry or wet sand with 500 grit sandpaper or a ScotchBriteĀ® pad.
This video demonstrates:
- 00:21 - Choosing a print color
- 01:00 - Preparing your sponge
- 01:50 - Mixing a diluted glaze
- 02:16 - Spritz water for chaos and flow
- 02:50 - Dab and disperse the glaze
- 04:00 - Erasing (if necessary)
- 05:00 - Takeaway tips
- 05:17 - Other techniques for the adventurous!
- 05:54 - The next afternoon; the matching sofa
- 06:29 - Rethinking the print color
- 06:56 - Swiping-dispersing method
- 07:29 - The following weekend wrap-up
- 07:55 - Stripping some of my first experimental sections
- 09:35 - Leather can take a beating and still looks great!
Heidi beautifully demonstrates a sponge and rag technique at minute 3:26 here:
Fear not, if you're too heavy-handed with color, it will wear with time and develop its own patina and character.
Hi Lesandre. I put a re-coloring balm on a non-absorbent leather couch. It quickly rubbed off (on my light haired dog). Do I need to use a specific type of re-coloring balm or can I lightly scuff it up. I did try and sand the matching chair with very fine sand paper and it seems to be holding up much better, but the dog hasn’t gone on that one so I don’t know if it’s just that it gets less use.
If your leather is non-absorbent, it is finished leather, and a balm is not going to penetrate. But a new finish (like ours) will correct the issue. Dog claws are more like 220 grit sandpaper, and will damage a finish over time, such that they’ll require touch-up, which is easy. See here about matching color.
What color would look best to achieve a weathered leather look on top of the Rub n Restore stone color?
The second video on this page (Heidi from BabeCave TV) shows a Stone base with a Slate printing over the top. If you don’t want a color as dark as Slate, just modify the Stone with a little Slate (for a cooler grey) or Espresso (for a warmer grey).
Can I use a turquoise color/turquoise glaze to change a color and then go over it with a splotchy black glaze to create an antiqued finish or in specific areas or would the black glaze cover the turquoise? Trying to acheive a look like how some chesterfields have a blacked buttons/seems but an underlying color throughout the main body. Basically are there any instruction of creating a marbled/antique look using two non-browns and might have more contrast between them than brown? Any instructions on blending if doing tuft/seem work? I’m debating whether to order midnight blue and do a solid or turquois with black marbling/seem antiquing because I think that will darken the turquoise’s brightness
Yes, you can do almost anything you want. If you don’t want the black to obscure the turquoise then use your sponge to do a printed appearance or concentrate it on tufting and buttons, seams, or piping to create a burnished look.
I purchased some of your products 30th September 2017. #15036. Just now decided to get started. It’s been unopened. Does it have a shelf life? Can I still use it?
Here’s information about shelf-life. It is a bit old, the mineral pigments will have created a sludge at the bottom, but hopefully you still have your stir stick. Thoroughly stir it to re-grind the pigment, and it should work just fine.